The Hornbill Mural, Borneo


Following on from our stay on Pulau Tuba, we spent a couple of days in Kuala Lumpur, where we pretty much exhausted what the city has to offer. We goggled at the Petronas Towers in daylight, gorged ourselves on terrific street food, and then goggled at the Petronas Towers at night. Then we flew to Borneo.

We were met in Kuching by John - an affable Malaysian man - who drove us to his modest beach resort, near the small town of Lundu.




The place was yet to open to the public. It had been a work in progress for three years - and the end was clearly in sight. There was smart-looking guest accommodation, a pool, a covered dining area overlooking the sea, and a large service kitchen. There was a difficult and neurotic dog called Bonnie, who had been rescued from her previous owner, who had abused and neglected her. As a result of her experience, she harboured a strong antipathy for “local people”, but she was fine with westerners. She spent her days attached to a long tether in the middle of the dining area, next to the bar, near the kitchen.

There were five volunteers already in residence when we arrived. There were also workmen roaming around. It seemed “busy” after our time spent on Pulau Tuba. I knew Madelene felt that too.

It’s rather unfashionable and antisocial to admit that you don’t want to be around “other people”; that you want to be the “only” volunteers. But that’s about the truth of it. Arriving in this nexus of activity (as it struck us at the time), we were instantly lovesick for the perfectly quiet, idyllic beach life we had once enjoyed, on that tiny Malaysian island.

Our nostalgia for those bygone days was reinforced when we went upstairs to check out our quarters. We discovered a steel bunk bed furnished with one rather mean and unhygienic-looking mattress, a non-functional air conditioner, and a window overlooking the car park. It drew unfavourable comparisons with our beach house in Pulau Tuba, which was open to the sea breeze.

Madelene sat down on the creaking bed springs, and I could see she was far from thrilled by the conditions.

I shared her “Oh-god-what-are-we-doing-here” snap first impression, but I was also minded that first impressions are notoriously misleading. I figured, on balance, that we would settle in OK.

Our fellow volunteers were friendly enough. There was a French couple - Juliet and Julian - who had been helping out at the resort for a month. There was an English couple - Olivia and Darren - who had been there for five days. And there was an Englishman - Ben - who had arrived with the English couple.

Ben was studying biomedical engineering at Imperial College, London. The French couple and the English couple worked in hospitality. Darren was a chef, so he was in charge of the kitchen.

They said we could chip in to their combined food fund, if we wished, and partake of Darren’s professional-grade cooking. However, Madelene is allergic to various things, and anyway, we had brought our own supply of food with us. It consisted primarily of spaghetti, mushroom soup and sardines.

It meant that mine and Madelene’s kitchen battles were set to continue.

Whereas the previous battleground, on Pulau Tuba, had been breakfast, this time – it was dinner. Specifically – spaghetti was the flashpoint.

Madelene likes to break the spaghetti in half and dump it into cold unsalted water, and extract it before it is properly cooked. Then she showers it under the cold tap.

I like to put the unbroken spaghetti into boiling salted water, and extract it when it is al dente. Then I stir it with a smidgen of olive oil before serving – for flavour, and to prevent it getting tangled. To make sure the spaghetti is cooked properly, I always taste it before emptying the whole lot into the colander.

Madelene would watch me trying to extract a lonely noodle, wearing a disapproving expression, as though I was engaged in some perverse and arcane ritual.

“I never taste the spaghetti,” she would tell me.

“Yes,” I would reply. “That’s why it ends up undercooked.”

We would have a conversation, which went like this:

Me: “Make sure you cook the spaghetti properly.”
Her: “I do cook the spaghetti properly, Matthew. I cook it properly for me.”
Me: “What I mean is, don’t undercook it.”
Her: “I don’t undercook it. I like it to have some bite.”
Me: “That means al dente, not undercooked…”
Her: [sighs] “We just like to have it differently. That doesn’t mean your way is right.”
Me: “Try telling that to an Italian!” …etcetera.

I think it was the second evening of our stay at the beach resort. The rest of the volunteer group were tucking into some delicious-looking food that Darren had spent about an hour and a half on, and I was eating spaghetti that was very definitely undercooked. Perched atop the starchy unyielding mass were the contents of a tin of sardines. (Madelene was still in the kitchen, prising the lid off a tin of mushroom soup, which she was about to dump onto her own spaghetti.)

Olivia cast a dubious glance in my direction from across the table and asked:

“So, um, do you like cooking, Matthew?”

It was a priceless moment. I can’t remember what I choked out in response.

*

We were volunteering our time and energy, in exchange for a roof over our heads, under the benign auspices of Willie, the project manager. He was another affable Malaysian, charged with overseeing the final push, to get the place open to the public.

The construction phase was over, but there was plenty of tidying up and finishing-off-jobs left to do. Plus, a computer system still needed to be installed, along with all the other stuff vital to the running of a bar, restaurant and hotel.

It was decided to build a beach resort because revenue was needed to help finance a wildlife conservation centre in Matang, which is a few miles away. It is a home to orang-utans and other threatened species, native to Borneo. The wildlife centre is run by Leo, an Englishman who has been involved in local conservation efforts for the last twenty-five years, and who has had an active role in the construction of the resort. John is the owner of the resort, and he handles the business side of things.

To keep costs down, they have relied on the help of volunteers and local tradespeople to build everything on the site. This is why the project has taken three years to get to this point. The land is rented to the tune of ten thousand US Dollars a year, which has contributed to a financial black hole, which must be cleared before the business can make money. The pressure is therefore on (and has been on for some time) to get the place open to the public.

At the time of our arrival, the deadline for opening was less than a month away – which looked ambitious, considering the work that remained to be done. Because, while the place looked superficially OK, there was really a hell of a lot still to do.

Much of this could be attributed to slapdash construction methods, and disorganised working practices – which is no reflection on Willie’s project management, I should say. He was drafted in to get the project on-track, which he has more-or-less achieved, thanks to his dedication, and hard work.

Nevertheless, evidence abounds of an amateurish approach to construction. It is commonly said that there is hardly a right-angle to be found anywhere, which may be an exaggeration, but which reflects the fine variety of geometries on offer.

Concrete is splattered over walls, floors and tiles. Certainly the worst menial job – in the eyes of this volunteer, at least – is chiselling this stuff off. It’s an example of the countless man hours that are lost, trying to rectify a problem that shouldn’t exist in the first place.

Time is wasted because of the piecemeal approach to building, and installation. The plasterer can’t finish plastering, because the electrician hasn’t finished wiring. The plumber can’t finish plumbing, because the sinks haven’t been installed. Etcetera. These are the standard problems, familiar to anyone who has ever been involved in a project like this.

I am in a fortunate position, because I am here mainly for my skills as an artist, rather than a concrete-scraper.

On our arrival, John showed me a large wall behind what will eventually be the reception desk. He wanted me to paint a mural on it, and he was happy to leave the subject matter up to me.

It was a fabulous canvas for a wall-muralist. Just like all the other walls, it had recently been painted white. The plaster was in perfect condition. It was perhaps twenty-five feet long, by about eight feet high – meaning the top bits would be within easy reach if I stood on a chair. There would be no ladders required for this job.

Its prime location meant it would be seen by every visitor to the resort.

It was a great opportunity. The question was – what would I paint?

A nature theme was obvious, given the connection to wildlife conservation. It would need to be a local creature, of course, indigenous to Borneo.

There was only one serious candidate, which sprang, fully-feathered, into my mind: a hornbill.

They are bold, cartoonish birds, which makes them a perfect fit for my preferred style of painting.

I pictured the bird perched on a tree branch in a jungle setting. The bird would be in the centre of the rectangle, and jungle foliage would creep in at the sides. I was happy to leave plenty of white space, which would echo the minimalist décor found elsewhere.

John was happy with the idea, when I told him, while Leo was quite cool, at first. He liked the clean white walls, and I had the impression that John was the main flag-waver for the mural-painting.

I agreed with Leo – I liked the white walls too. But I also liked the idea of a big, bold painting behind the reception desk – my painting – which would stand out all the more, thanks to those white walls.

I showed him the wall art I did on Pulau Tuba – and at the children’s home, back in the UK. I outlined my vision. And after a bit of chin-stroking, I got the all-clear.

“Go for it,” he told me.

I was very happy. I was determined to take my time with this one, and create something memorable. Madelene and I were planning to stay for around a month before moving on, so there should be no reason to get into a panic as we scrambled to meet an unrealistic deadline – as happened last time.

There were just a couple of issues…

Firstly, there wasn’t a lot to do at the resort. There was the beach, of course, which was lovely – although the shallow sea made swimming difficult, or impossible, except at high tide.

The nearest town, Lundu, was fifteen minutes away by motor scooter, and there was one available for Madelene, myself, and the other volunteers, to use when we needed to replenish supplies. It was a beast of a thing – large and wallowy – with brakes that came and went as they pleased. It was exceedingly comfortable, however.

I was happy with the quiet, and the lack of distractions. Theoretically, this would give me the chance I needed, to catch up with some travel writing.

Plus, of course, I had a gigantic wall mural to paint.

The situation was different for Madelene. She was stuck with the menial, thoroughly unsexy jobs – like cleaning, gardening, lugging things around, and chipping away at hardened splatters of concrete. She wasn’t writing a travel book; hell, she wasn’t even reading a book. I could see from her demeanour that boredom was a clear and present threat.

The second issue…

The other volunteers had formed a tight group. They tended to gather around the big dining table near the kitchen, and talk - a lot. No harm in this, of course, except - Madelene tended to find herself frozen out of conversations.

Her English is good, but the rapid-fire group chat, with its deployment of unfamiliar words, was leaving her behind.

“How would you like it,” she asked me, “if you had to sit around listening to people speak Swedish all the time?”

I could see her point. In a sense, it was one of those intractable problems: you can hardly expect people to change their conversational style, for the benefit of one person. And you can’t expect everyone to start speaking Swedish. For better or worse, English has long established itself as the go-to international language; blame our murderous colonial heritage.

Madelene’s way of dealing with it was to isolate herself from the group. I gently tried to persuade her in the other direction, because I could see the risks inherent to this strategy. It was possible that we would be sharing a roof with our fellow volunteers for several weeks – which could feel like a lifetime, if things became awkward. And they would become awkward, if basic etiquette was not observed.

My advice was: just sit with them, every so often. Perhaps not during every social flare-up that occurred throughout the day – because there were many. There was breakfast, post-breakfast, post-work / pre-lunch, lunch, post-lunch, dinner, and then the evenings were devoted to more of the same. It was too much for me, that’s for sure, but still, you really have to make the effort, when you’re part of a group, in a place like this.

Otherwise, casual separation becomes active avoidance. Sharing a room becomes painfully awkward. The experience becomes hellish, so it’s best to avoid it starting in the first place.

The best approach is to be mindful of the group dynamics – whatever they happen to be – and to not stray too far from the existing framework. It puts everyone at ease, and – not inconsequentially – it makes life easier for you.

Madelene was receptive to my anthropological waffling, but still, I could see she wasn’t happy, and I could understand why.

There was an a-symmetry to our predicament.

I had been traveling for ten months, and my money was running low. Indeed, my financial health was practically flat-lining. I needed the work exchange programme, because without it, I would be attending that great gig in the sky: a budget flight home.

And of course – since I had discovered how in-demand wall muralists seem to be in SE Asia (and, who knows, maybe around the world), I wanted to do the work exchange. It was perfect for me, and I wished I had discovered it sooner. How much money would I have saved in Sri Lanka and India had I been wall muralising, and how much more fruitful would my travel experience have been?

Madelene didn’t need the work exchange. She had spent six months working in her native Sweden while I had been traveling around India. She had plenty of money saved up – she wanted a holiday, god damn it – and who can blame her? She didn’t want to be scrubbing floors, and weeding in the glare of the tropical sun, and chipping away at splatters of concrete left behind by incompetent tradesmen. She didn’t want to be sitting around, bored out of her skull, listening to people blathering on interminably in English.

So I conceived of an idea that I hoped would improve matters: we would work on the wall mural together.

Of course! And why not? We worked on the last one together – the giant abstract on the side of the timber house, on the Malaysian island of Pulau Tuba. Indeed, on that occasion, Madelene came to my rescue, because without her help, I couldn’t have finished the mural in time – thanks to our diabolical host, who decided to kick us off the island with just three days’ notice, when the painting was a week away from completion.

Madelene was happy to team-up again. It offered her a neat escape from the menial labour. Importantly, it gave her a reason to be here ­­– beyond just hanging around, waiting for me to get the wall mural finished.

I figured – I would put in the first layer of paint, and then Madelene could put in the second layer. It would save us from getting in each other’s way, and the onerous decisions, about which colours to use, would already have been made.

Before I could start painting, however, I had the drawing to do.  

Sketching out the design, in pencil, was a luxury unavailable to me on the last job. The walrus mural went up on a red exterior wall, and the abstract went up on rough timber cladding. Neither would have been receptive to pencil marks. Instead, I used white paint to roughly mark out my designs, before filling in the shapes with colour, and finally working in the outlines with black paint.

The designs reflected this working method. They relied on big, bold shapes, and eschewed intricacy. This time, it would be different. The big, bold shapes would be there – but the detail would be there too.

The bird was to be situated in a jungle setting. This meant painting foliage, which requires careful work. It is a pain in the arse, to be honest, and the kind of thing I usually avoid, but I knew it would be worth it in the end. The fact is – the vision had presented itself to me, and I had little choice but to translate that into life, as faithfully and as energetically as I could.

*

After a couple of days, the drawing was finished, and John had arrived with the paint – as promised. He had executed the order faithfully. I had seven one-litre tins of emulsion, comprising black, white, red, yellow, brown, plus two shades of green.

I had specified two shades of green because I wanted a diverse colour palette for the leaves and the jungle plants. The challenge was, to recreate a sense of the Bornean rainforest, without overworking the design. For that, you need a lot of plants, and leaves, and trailing vines, and long grasses, and you need plenty of different greens – but not too many. And the shapes of the leaves and the long grasses are incredibly important, as are the spaces between them. The colours are important. It has to look natural.

Thankfully, the greens he selected were perfect for my requirements: I had a lovely, bright, lime green, and a more subdued grass green. With those two shades, I was confident I could mix a wide variety of jungle hues – with the help of the white, the yellow, and the black.

The brown would do for the tree, and the jungle vines. The red would mix with the yellow, to create the fiery shades for the bird’s horn, and its beak.

*

In addition to painting the wall mural, I wanted to make a video.

It’s something I had wanted to do for a while: make a time-lapse of one of my painting projects. For the walrus mural on Pulau Tuba, Madelene set up her mobile phone, to make a couple of short videos. One of them shows me filling in the eyes of mummy and daddy walrus, and the two juveniles.

I wanted more, however. I wanted a time-lapse that would run from the beginning of a project, to the end. It’s the kind of thing that goes down a stink on YouTube, which I figured might direct some traffic to my website.

And, y’know, it looks cool, and I like showing off.

There were some practical challenges to overcome. First, where do you put the camera? Either it remains in the same spot for the duration of the project – which may take several days – or, if it is moved, it must be returned to exactly that spot.

What kind of camera do you use? If it is a mobile phone, all of its functions must be subordinated to the task of making the video. That means no tweeting, Googling, or anything else.

Will the camera be plugged-in? And if so, will people trip over the power cable? Will it be protected from the weather? How much data will the on-board memory store, before it has to be emptied out…?

Just some of the considerations.

Since my iPhone had been incapacitated by seawater on my 33rd birthday, I only had one option: to use my Nikon B700 bridge camera. A quick Google search revealed that it did, in fact, do time-lapse videos – along with many other things, which I knew nothing about.

The conditions were pretty good for making the time-lapse.

For a start, this wall mural was indoors – so no worries about the capricious tropical weather gods. For another, the reception counter was already installed, and made for a very useful bench, on which I could lay out my paints, my laptop, my Boom2 wireless speaker, and my camera.

The counter was rather too close to the wall I would be working on – which struck me as a problem at first. It meant I would have to position the camera at one end, rather than have it square-on in the middle, which would have been ideal. The long rectangular shape of my canvas meant a degree of foreshortening was inevitable.

However, when I set the camera up, I decided it looked fine. The wide-angle lens did a fair job of capturing the wall space, minus three of the four corners.

There were a few time-lapse options installed in the camera, and I chose the one that seemed to fit my needs best: “Cityscape” would take one picture every twelve seconds, for fifty minutes. Once the fifty minutes were up, a simple button press would set the thing going for another fifty minutes.

Played back at twenty-five frames per second, I would end up with a video that was speeded up three hundred times. Fifty minutes of painting would equate to ten seconds of playback, which seemed reasonable.

Working together, I reckoned we could get the painting done in about five days – freeing us up, so we could move onto the next leg of our travels.

Our travel plans had become compressed – partly because Madelene wanted to move on anyway. She wasn’t really happy here, and she had her heart set on going to Bali. Not being one to pass up the idea of a beach holiday, I was happy with that.

In addition, Madelene had received some news from Sweden, while I was doing the pencil drawing: she had been accepted on a university course, starting early September. She had applied to do a degree in child care, and the decision – whether she should accept the offer, or turn it down – was weighing heavily on her. Of course, accepting a place on the course would have a major effect on our travel plans.

I encouraged her to accept the offer – Madelene is great with children, and this is something she is passionate about. It was a no-brainer.

She accepted the offer.

I decided I would fly to Sweden with her, before I returned home to the UK, to go back to work. I was fast running out of money, anyway, so the timing wasn’t so bad.

It meant we would have less time than I originally hoped to get the mural finished.

Not a problem, I figured. Starting early in the morning each day, and working together, the painting wouldn’t take long. The tricky bit was the drawing, which was now finished.

We looked at the calendar on Madelene’s phone. It was a Tuesday, and we decided to book the flight to Bali on the following Monday. I thought that would give us plenty of time.

It didn’t.

*

Everything started off well. I mixed a load of greens in the polystyrene takeaway food pots I brought with me from Pulau Tuba. I had yellow-greens, bright greens, grass greens, and dark greens.

Madelene snipped at my DIY decorators’ brushes with nail scissors, until I had the precision tools I needed, to start filling in the leaves.

I set my camera up on a cardboard box on the reception counter, and I marked the position of the box with pencil. I also outlined the position of the camera on the box. I put “Do not move this box!” signs on the box – augmented with smiley faces, of course. I set the camera clicking away; one picture every twelve seconds.

(I didn’t know how long it would take for the memory card to fill up. I didn’t know how the automatic sensors would deal with the changing light, over the course of the afternoon. I wasn’t even sure if it would stay in focus. There were many unknowns about making the time-lapse, as there always are with these things.)

I was starting with the jungle ferns, to the right of where the bird would eventually be (I had decided to paint the bird last.)

Madelene had done a great job with the brushes, and I was pleased with the greens I had mixed. I wanted to convey a sense of sunlight shining through the forest, splashing on the upper leaves. The yellow-greens did a fine job of suggesting this effect.

At the end of that first day, I had completed a half-day of painting, and I was happy with the early progress. I had no problem imagining that we would finish the mural, comfortably, probably with a day to spare, which we could spend lounging on the beach, before we flew to Bali.

But then, I have no problem imagining all kinds of crazy things.

*

Our co-volunteers had decided to move on, and Willie gave them a lift to the bus station the next day. 

Before they left, I asked them to stand with Madelene and myself behind the reception desk, while the Nikon snapped off a couple of frames. Leo and Willie had already been featured in the time-lapse, and it was my intention to waylay anyone else who happened to stop by, to get them in the video too.


We waved goodbye to them, and then Madelene took Bonnie for her morning walk, and I carried on with the painting.

It was during the course of that morning that I fully realised what an enormous task I had set myself.

I had attempted to rationalise the chaos of the tropical jungle by pencilling in little breaks where the plants and grasses crossed in front of each other. I hoped this would avoid my jungle scene dissolving into a formless green soup, and introduce a pleasing, subtle geometry to the composition.

In practice, this meant I had hundreds of little shapes to fill in. It was slow, time-consuming work – and I wasn’t at all sure it would look any good once it was finished. I was afraid it might look over-stylized next to the bird, which I was intending to paint in a more naturalistic manner.

Fittingly, perhaps, I felt very much “lost” in the jungle scene I was creating, and I was acutely aware of the acreage of white space that stretched off to my left, and the limited time available to fill it.

Nevertheless, by late afternoon on Wednesday, I had finished applying the first layer of paint to the jungle ferns and long grasses. The next day, I switched my attentions to the other end of the wall, and Madelene moved in to the area I had just vacated, to begin applying the second coat of paint.




It was great to have Madelene working alongside me. Just knowing she was there – methodically going over the greens, making them brighter, and richer – was a huge confidence boost. It made me feel a lot less under-pressure, and lonely, as I worked away at my little patch of wall. Plus, by working on different sections of the mural, we avoided getting in each other’s way.

But still – there were problems.

I had mixed eight shades of green – meaning there were ten altogether, counting the two base colours. They were scattered around the reception desk in polystyrene cups, and while I had attempted to work out a system for remembering which colour was which, in practice, they readily got mixed-up.

Madelene would ask me which green corresponded to which jungle plant, and I would gaze vapidly at the sea of green pots, and select the one I thought was right. However, the differences between the greens were often very slight, and the light was not always that good, and it was easy to make mistakes. Sometimes I would only realise I had given Madelene the wrong green after she had been using it for half an hour or more, meaning a good deal of time, and effort, had been wasted, as the whole area would need to be redone.

Needless to say, such cockups were not great for morale.

We were still very much in “jungle territory”. While Madelene applied the second layer of paint to the ferns and grasses, I was down the other end – working on the big tree, and the cheese plant.

I had decided to make the trunk of the tree large, and quite dark, as a visual counterpoint to the ferns and grasses. The mass of the trunk would be broken up by the cheese plant creeper spiralling around it, projecting its big, beautiful leaves at intervals.

The lower branch of the tree went off at an upwards-sloping angle into the centre of the composition. This provided the perch for the hornbill, which I hoped to start painting the next day.

That was, if I could get the damned cheese plant finished.

I had mixed feelings about the cheese plant from the beginning. I knew the leaves would be a right bastard, because of the complex geometry of the curves. Equally, I knew: if I had the time, and the patience, to get them right, they would reward my efforts, by looking wonderful.

The first leaf was a battleground, as I knew it would be. The drawing took forever to get right, and once I had eventually finished it, I realised it was about 50% too small, in relation to the bird. So I drew it out again, and moved on to the other leaves – which were positioned at different angles, and so, riddled with their own fiendish geometries.

(As ever, the artistic discipline lies in the need to make the leaves look natural – singly, and as a group. And that means every curve within every leaf must look natural. It’s got something to do with fractals, and mathematics.)

Applying paint to the leaves was a slow and painstaking business, and it took me all day. And even then, I didn’t get them all: I would have another leaf to paint the following morning, before I moved onto the main course, the big kahuna; El Capo himself: the hornbill.


The slow progress (as it felt at the time) wasn’t down to laziness on the part of the artist, I can tell you! I was working long hours! And Madelene was working long hours too! (Although not quite as long as mine, which is fair enough, because this was not her battle in the first place.)

My dream of doing three or four hours of painting a day, interspersed with lots of lazing around on the beach, was a long-forgotten fantasy.

The alarm would sound at 6.30am, and by 7am, I was painting.

I didn’t even need the alarm, any more. My body clock had adjusted. That intervening half hour would (sometimes) be spent running along the beach. Then I would float in the sea, enjoying its cool embrace, before continuing work on the wall mural.

I would paint for roughly an hour, at which point, Madelene would have made breakfast.

I hesitate to say that breakfast was the high-point of the day – as it implies everything went downhill from there. But it was one of the high points.

We had long-since settled upon our perfect breakfasting formula. Our choices reflected the fact that the toaster was broken, and there was no grill. The only bread available in Lundu was of the white variety, and neither of us fancied eating this sad, flabby, uncooked material.

So, we had porridge. In addition to that, Madelene boiled eggs for us, and we had coffee.

It was an amazing breakfast. I had bananas with my porridge, and milk, and honey. Madelene had adjusted the timing on the eggs, to suit our varied tastes: mine were runny, more often than not, while hers were boiled to hell and back.

After breakfast, Madelene would take Bonnie for her morning walk, and I would carry on painting. Then she would join me at the coal face, and we would work solidly till lunch.

At this point, I would plug in the Nikon, so that it could acquire some much-needed juice during our lunch break.

(Very annoyingly, I had found that it would refuse to take pictures while it was plugged-in. This meant I couldn’t just plug it in and forget about it while it took pictures. I had to worry about it while it took pictures, because I was afraid its batteries might run out.

This actually happened on one occasion, meaning that all painting activities had to cease, while the camera charged up.

Madelene pointed out how crazy this was; we had a flight to catch in a very few days, and we could ill-afford to down brushes, on account of the camera.

But the truth was: the time-lapse video had become as important to me as the mural itself. And unless you make the video in its entirety; i.e., you record everything, there’s no point in making the video at all. So the camera was a source of acute, intermittent stress, as you can imagine.)

We would both reconvene after lunch, and paint solidly until the light began to fail in the late afternoon.

(By around five o’clock, the quality of the light has degraded to the extent that you can’t see the colours properly. So at that point, it’s time to stop.)

After a full day of painting, and stressing about the camera, I would feel completely exhausted. What better way to relax could there possibly be, than to paddle out to sea, with the birthday bird?


Conscientious and loyal readers will be aware that I was gifted a large, pink inflatable “swimming aid” in the guise of a cartoon flamingo by Madelene, by way of my 33rd birthday present. She purchased it on the Thai island of Koh Lanta and presented it to me on the Malaysian island of Langkawi. It has provided us with oceans of aquatic fun ever since.

It took us a few days before Madelene used her incredible lung power to inflate the birthday bird, following our arrival on Borneo. Its vaguely ceremonial “wetting” probably coincided with a change of atmosphere at the beach resort, due to the departure of our fellow volunteers.

No longer did Madelene feel like an outsider on account of the chattering group. For my part, I was smoking and drinking less, writing more, and generally enjoying the peace and quiet – ongoing construction work notwithstanding.

We both felt happier, and more at home, now that it was “just us”. Really, we just wanted to spend time together.

Hell, we were in love, and we still are. What you gonna do?

So we celebrated our sense of liberation by casting out to sea in the ridiculous violent-pink vessel, which had become more to us than a membrane of vacuum-formed plastic. It was imbued with life, and personality. Ensconced in its donut-shaped embrace, we were transported once again to our happy place, and the feeling stayed with us. In short, the really great times had come back.


*

I was putting in eight hours-a-day on the wall mural, and Madelene was pitching in with six or seven. We were working towards a deadline that loomed formidably, though not terrifyingly – and certainly not impossibly.

I was confident we would get it finished. The question was: could we get it finished to a high enough standard? Small mistakes and compromises might make no odds to anyone else, but for me they would be spears of torment thrust into my guts, whenever I looked at it, or thought about it.

Such is the burden of the artiste.

It was Friday afternoon before I started painting the hornbill, which occupied the centre of the wall space. Madelene moved to the spot I had just vacated, where she began applying the second coat of paint to the tree and the cheese plant.

Her brushwork had improved a lot. She was confidently turning out crisp, clean edges, and glossy, deep jungle greens.

For my part, I reached for the last unopened tin of paint – the red – and mixed a variety of orange shades. I used these to paint the bird’s beak and its impressive horn. Then I switched to the black paint, and I made my first – and last – really aggravating mistake: I outlined the beak, and the horn, with lines that were too thick.


It’s easy to do, because outlines go on so quickly. There’s a tendency to do them without much conscious thought. It’s only when you stand back that the true impact can be assessed, and by then, it’s often too late.

And so it was on this occasion. I assessed my handiwork with tired eyes, and I got that vicious prickling of the skin, which told me I had fucked up.

The lines were far too heavy; they strangled the delicate shapes of the beak and the horn. I’d stopped thinking, probably because I was tired. The lines looked ugly.

It was infuriating, because there was no going back: the orange areas were graded, which would mean I’d have to go over them again, if I wanted to reduce the thickness of the lines. I didn’t have the energy to do that.

Madelene put up with my biggest tantrum of the whole project. As I recall, I swore a good deal, and punched the wall, hard enough to temporarily anaesthetise my hand.

It took me a few minutes to calm down. When I did, I started listening to Madelene’s calm words. She suggested using white paint to thin the lines down a fraction. This wouldn’t help with the interior lines, but I could at least reduce the thickness of the perimeter lines.

As it turned out, this was enough. Some careful surgery toned down the visual calamity, and I decided – after a little time, a cup of tea, and a cigarette – that it looked OK.

The storm was over, and the rest of the bird went up without incident. It just took me a lot longer than I had expected.

I thought the bird would be finished after a day’s painting, but I had underestimated the complexity of the feathers. They seemed to take me forever. Once it was finished, it was late afternoon on Sunday – and I still had the jungle vines to paint, plus lots of finishing-off bits. We had a flight to catch the following afternoon!

So on the Monday morning I was awake at dawn and painting shortly after, and Madelene came to join me an hour later. We worked without pause until midday, at which point the bloody thing was finally finished. Starving, we wolfed down the remains of our food stockpile, which consisted of spaghetti, and eggs.

We received some bemused and uncomprehending looks from the Malaysians in attendance, as they watched us consume this fare. I didn’t care. It was fuel.

I cleared away my pots of paint and took pictures of the wall mural, packed everything up, and Willie gave us a lift to the bus station. We caught our plane, flew to Bali, and had a wonderful, much-needed beach holiday – without a paint pot in sight.

The link to the time-lapse video is available here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00QBMoMCIuU











                                   

                                   


























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